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.....isn't working.
I thought I'd take a look at mine today as the water jet seems to follow the wiper when it should remain in the straight up position. Also the jet strength is nothing like it used to be.
So, heres how to remove the motor:
1. Prise off the wiper fastening cap
2. Remove the cap
3. Pull out the jet.
4. The jet wasn't blocked and looked fine. So that wasn't the problem.
5. Now remove the 13mm nut and lift off the wiper arm. You will be left with the bare spindle.
6. Open the boot and remove the tailgate cover. Undo the two screws where indicated and then pull off the complete lower cover (it's very tight and you do need to hang on it a bit).
7. This is the motor and indicated are the three nuts that hold it to the tailgate. Ignore the blob of white silicone. This was to stop a fluid leak which occurred earlier this year.
8. Remove the motor's electrical connector.
9. Remove the fluid connector and then unbolt the motor and remove from the tailgate.
10. Here you can how the fluid is routed through the motor and spindle.
11. Now remove the motor case via the seven T10 Torx screws.
12. Remove the case
Now we find the cause of the problems. As you can see in this diagram the long pipe that runs through the spindle and motor has broken.
The reason for this is the pipe has rusted and fused itself to the inside bore of the spindle. As the motor has turned it has broken the pipe as the spindle can no longer move independantly to the pipe.
The pipe has broken inside approximately where indicated below.
Basically a new motor is required.
You could either get a complete new motor, or a used part from a breakers.
Alternatively drill out the broken part and try to obtain a new pipe and case cover from a motor at a breakers (but if you are going to do that, then you might as well fit the whole motor anyway.
I hope this helps people who are dissapointed with there rear washers this winter, to get them fixed.
I thought I'd take a look at mine today as the water jet seems to follow the wiper when it should remain in the straight up position. Also the jet strength is nothing like it used to be.
So, heres how to remove the motor:
1. Prise off the wiper fastening cap
2. Remove the cap
3. Pull out the jet.
4. The jet wasn't blocked and looked fine. So that wasn't the problem.
5. Now remove the 13mm nut and lift off the wiper arm. You will be left with the bare spindle.
6. Open the boot and remove the tailgate cover. Undo the two screws where indicated and then pull off the complete lower cover (it's very tight and you do need to hang on it a bit).
7. This is the motor and indicated are the three nuts that hold it to the tailgate. Ignore the blob of white silicone. This was to stop a fluid leak which occurred earlier this year.
8. Remove the motor's electrical connector.
9. Remove the fluid connector and then unbolt the motor and remove from the tailgate.
10. Here you can how the fluid is routed through the motor and spindle.
11. Now remove the motor case via the seven T10 Torx screws.
12. Remove the case
Now we find the cause of the problems. As you can see in this diagram the long pipe that runs through the spindle and motor has broken.
The reason for this is the pipe has rusted and fused itself to the inside bore of the spindle. As the motor has turned it has broken the pipe as the spindle can no longer move independantly to the pipe.
The pipe has broken inside approximately where indicated below.
Basically a new motor is required.
You could either get a complete new motor, or a used part from a breakers.
Alternatively drill out the broken part and try to obtain a new pipe and case cover from a motor at a breakers (but if you are going to do that, then you might as well fit the whole motor anyway.
I hope this helps people who are dissapointed with there rear washers this winter, to get them fixed.