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  1. #1
    danger S3's Avatar
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    answer for me these questions 3 (Tractor noise when starts and vcds error)

    evenin guys and gals, i hope were all well and your cars aren't miss behaving too much

    my car has been on long life service for 100k miles and since i got the car a few months ago ive cleaned out the sump, pickup and cam cover so im a bit happier now that it isnt getting starved of oil anymore.

    is there a way in vcds to check the oil pressure? and if so what should it read?

    the tractor noise when it starts only lasts about a second and as far as I'm aware was caused by the engine getting starved of oil a bit. but what I'm wondering is what is it that's actually making the tractor noise? a particular bearing? and is it fixable?

    finally i did a vcds scan today and it came up with a fault i had previously which is

    Address 01: Engine Labels: None
    Part No: 8N0 906 018 J
    Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0004
    Coding: 10710
    Shop #: WSC 01236
    VCID: 387B57F83221
    WAUZZZ8LZ11001100 AUZ7Z0A1825243

    1 Fault Found:
    17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)
    P1296 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 0000

    i changed the temp sensor (059 919 501A - the green one) and cleared the codes after. i'm guessing it will be the thermostat which i can imagine is a nightmare to replace
    any ideas?

    cheers

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  3. #2
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    What engine code do you have?

    Its more likely the cam chain tensioner rattling as it too is hydraulicly controlled.

    Some models also have electiral control and this makes them uber expensive to replace

  4. #3
    danger S3's Avatar
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    my engine is an AMK

    i hope its the cheaper version ;-)

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  6. #5
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    Chain tensioner = tractor= 420incl vat 

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by coopsS3 View Post
    Chain tensioner = tractor= 420incl vat 
    Yep, AMK engines are VVT engines, which means expensive tensioner.... Sorry
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  8. #7
    danger S3's Avatar
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    thanks for the info guys. can't believe there so expensive. stupid awesome shiny black money pit

    how serious is the chain tensioner tractor noise?
    is it just gonna make an annoying noise for a second when I start the car or is there a risk of it causing more damage?

    basically is it worth fixing?

  9. #8
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    Wasnt vvt introduced on the bam engine and thats where the extra 15 gee gees came from circa 2003 model the amk on a facelift is 210 as far as i know ?? maybe someone can clarify ?

  10. #9
    jojo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duktor View Post
    Wasnt vvt introduced on the bam engine and thats where the extra 15 gee gees came from circa 2003 model the amk on a facelift is 210 as far as i know ?? maybe someone can clarify ?
    vvt was introduced to help emmissions, it doesn't give you any more power, that comes with the engine mapping. The S3 only came with '210bhp' so as not to steal sales from the more expensive(and more profitable) TT225, but when the TT got the 3.2 V6 unit(250ps), the S3 got it's full fat 225.



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  11. #10
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    been searching all night for some diagrams of the engines but they are more difficult to find than a low milage s3 for sale at 4k any links would be usefull of the engine fiche guys


    just found this link whilst trolling the archives , jojo and welly are spot on

    Definitive list of engine codes
    Last edited by Duktor; 8th October 2010 at 06:52.

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    Quote Originally Posted by danger S3 View Post
    thanks for the info guys. can't believe there so expensive. stupid awesome shiny black money pit

    how serious is the chain tensioner tractor noise?
    is it just gonna make an annoying noise for a second when I start the car or is there a risk of it causing more damage?

    basically is it worth fixing?
    I'd like to know this too. Anyone got any info on how worried we should be about the "tractor noise" when starting up?

    I've an APY engine, is it still 400ish for the part?

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    Just did a quick search there, other guys seem to be saying that the "tractor noise" on start up, on a prefacelift, is most likey the secondary air flow pump strange noise on start up & turning off

    My secondary airflow pump throws an error code every now and again, so maybe that is what is causing the noise? Any opinions on this noise from a APY engine?

  14. #13
    s3dave's Avatar
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    Secondary air pumps are known to be noisy the rivets come loose so maybe...

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    Quote Originally Posted by s3dave View Post
    Secondary air pumps are known to be noisy the rivets come loose so maybe...
    And should I be worried about the secondary air pump if rivets have come loose? From what I've read it's nothing to be worried about, and it's a waste of time replacing it.

  16. #15
    s3dave's Avatar
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    they just get noisy, you can delete it i think

  17. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by metricspaces View Post
    I'd like to know this too. Anyone got any info on how worried we should be about the "tractor noise" when starting up?

    I've an APY engine, is it still 400ish for the part?
    Nope, less than 200 for the APYs
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  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3dave View Post
    they just get noisy, you can delete it i think
    Yarp, you can indeed, although a ***** of a job to get the pump out!

    Mine lives in the circular file now, waste of time and weight IMO.
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  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    Nope, less than 200 for the APYs
    F&%k ! One benifit of owning an prefacelift hehehe...I might be getting my head gasket done, so would it make sense to stick in a new one of these when everything is off?

  20. #19
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metricspaces View Post
    F&%k ! One benifit of owning an prefacelift hehehe...I might be getting my head gasket done, so would it make sense to stick in a new one of these when everything is off?
    I would agree. Prevention is better than cure...
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  21. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by danger S3 View Post
    thanks for the info guys. can't believe there so expensive. stupid awesome shiny black money pit

    how serious is the chain tensioner tractor noise?
    is it just gonna make an annoying noise for a second when I start the car or is there a risk of it causing more damage?

    basically is it worth fixing?
    I'd like to know this too. Anyone got any info on how worried we should be about the "tractor noise" when starting up?

    Also, how to tell if the noise is coming from dodgy SAF pump or from chain tensioner?

  22. #21
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metricspaces View Post
    I'd like to know this too. Anyone got any info on how worried we should be about the "tractor noise" when starting up?

    Also, how to tell if the noise is coming from dodgy SAF pump or from chain tensioner?
    You can simply unplug the SAI pump. It's on the front of the engine, big black cylindrical thingy with the pipes going to it. Pop the plug off to disable the system. Expect a fault code.

    NOTE: AMK and BAM engines DO NOT have the SAI system. If you have a noise on startup on either and AMK or BAM engines, it won't be the SAI.
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  23. #22
    S3 Nattie's Avatar
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    Have a read of this thread, very useful info.

    An intermitant rattle or tapping on start up from cold.

    Before you go and splash out on a cam chain tensioner replace your oil pick pipe and maybe your oil pump too. The reason being is because the cam chain tensioner operates via oil pressure, therefore if its not getting any oil pressure then the tension will lose its tension slightly so the chain will rattle on the guide slightly.

    Im replacing my oil pump in the next few days. You can check your oil pressure via vag com but it only says when its ok or less than minimum. In module 17, look in group 2 on the measuring blocks and it will say if your oil pressure is ok or less than minimum. Check the pressure on idle after you have had a 30 minute drive or so and see what it says at idle, then check what it says at a steady 2000 rpm on idle.

    Nathan
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  24. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3 Nattie View Post
    Have a read of this thread, very useful info.

    An intermitant rattle or tapping on start up from cold.

    Before you go and splash out on a cam chain tensioner replace your oil pick pipe and maybe your oil pump too. The reason being is because the cam chain tensioner operates via oil pressure, therefore if its not getting any oil pressure then the tension will lose its tension slightly so the chain will rattle on the guide slightly.

    Im replacing my oil pump in the next few days. You can check your oil pressure via vag com but it only says when its ok or less than minimum. In module 17, look in group 2 on the measuring blocks and it will say if your oil pressure is ok or less than minimum. Check the pressure on idle after you have had a 30 minute drive or so and see what it says at idle, then check what it says at a steady 2000 rpm on idle.

    Nathan
    Cheers for that info. Are you replacing your oil pump as a cautionary messure, or because the pressure is too low?

  25. #24
    S3 Nattie's Avatar
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    Well ive been getting a 16396 cam fault code for quite a while now and it only seems to be coming up when the oil pressure is low (less than minimum according to vag com). So I believe the code could be due to the tensioner is not having enough oil pressure to allow it to adjust sufficiently and then bring up the code, or could be mis-timing of the cam chain but thats not the OP's problem.

    I can get an oil pump from GSF for 55 and a oil pick up pipe for 7 from TPS so its pretty cheap for piece of mind. If your pick up pipe is blocked or your oil pump is tired then it will starve the engine of oil and the first part of the engine to suffer is top end therefore the tensioner and thats why they tend to rattle.

    Changing the oil pump is really easy on a 1.8T. If you know how to get the sump off then the oil pump is held in with three bolts.

    Nathan
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    3" Downpipe and de cat (will be going on ebay soon)
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  26. #25
    danger S3's Avatar
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    thanks guys, i think i will start by replacing the oil pump next time i drop the sump as its done 100k miles so it will be a wee bit tired and its like the heart of the car moving the oil round and see if that helps with the tensioner.

    if it doesn't help then its not like ive wasted the money on the oil pump as it was tired anyway

    I take it the tensioner is a replace it job rather than a give it a good clean up job?

 

 

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