JMB RetrofitsChris Nott
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  1. #1
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    Conrod/Machanic issue - Brembo brakes - steering wheel rattle

    Hi guys

    posted about 4 months ago when a mechanic 'audi specialist????' was 'dealing' with water pump issue and cam belt and while driving after he repaired it the conrod on my S3 went through the sum.

    I contacted the insurance co of the mechanic and gave them my expert report, they admitted liabilty and four months off - they just paid out!!

    I got a new S3, black, 34K, cnl remap, lowered, grand turismo brombo converstion, 19"s etc (will post a picture in due course.

    The thing is with the brembo's the guy i bought the S3 said that the break guards should be removed as they catch on somtimes. He said he told his mechanic that they should be off but he said there ok - Should they be off??

    Also at high speeds when I break the steering wheel judders/rattles - can i stop this?

    Thanks for all the previous help re conrods etc

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  3. #2
    voorhees's Avatar
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    I kept mine on and have never caught on anything...not sure on what they could actually get caught on tbh,have you had new pads or are the new brake set-up new ? if not bedded in properly you'll get a few niggles

  4. #3
    jcb
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    what discs?
    you could have warped discs or a sticky piston in one caliper.

    I ditch the guards as they do very little anyway. cant see why they would catch as they are soft metal and can just be bent out of the way of anything the catch on.

    got to ask...what the feck was your mechanic doing to make the conrod go through your sump?

  5. #4
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    I believe the OP had a hydrolocked engine due to failed turbo seals on the inlet side then the mechanic got the blame ! Its happened the same with me, done a cambelt on someone's car, they had a misfire on a cylinder due to a faulty coil, i advised to change it as it wasn't a really difficult job- even for a novice- but the chap let-it on for a few days. Overfueling blown the head gasket on piston 2 (was a v6 engine) and they tried to blame me for it ! the independent garrage who replaced the head gasket even said that the coolant system wasnt bleed properly ! I said that a petrol engine will boil starigt away with an air lock in the system and the car was fine for days and not overheating... I allways take the cars for a test drive prior handing it back just to make shure everything is as it should be...
    Last edited by adamss24; 2nd September 2010 at 11:37.
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  6. #5
    RIP S3dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcb View Post
    what discs?
    you could have warped discs or a sticky piston in one caliper.

    I ditch the guards as they do very little anyway. cant see why they would catch as they are soft metal and can just be bent out of the way of anything the catch on.

    got to ask...what the feck was your mechanic doing to make the conrod go through your sump?
    bet he just got the blame for it, and it was'nt likely his fault. cam belt job turned into rod failure? c'mon... FFS
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  7. #6
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    Hi guys

    Thanks for the response. For the Mechanic cheerleaders, two independant mechanics confirmed that after the water pump, cam belt change and the probelms I had with the tempreture for two weeks (mechanic said it was tempreture switch and fan switch - both of which were changed) the cambelt slipped a tooth sent a piston up which collided with the valve and the conrod broke. There was a large dent on the psiton crown - this was no way my fault.

    As to the breaks - the discs are large and have wholes in them I just thought that they cam with the grand turismo breack kit - not really sure what they are. The break system is a few months old. I going to remove the break guards. But more concerned that breaking at high speeds the steering wheel shudders. I will check the calipers for sticking.

    If any one else has experienced this I would be grateful for your advice.

  8. #7
    RIP S3dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by s3vik225bhp View Post
    Hi guys

    Thanks for the response. For the Mechanic cheerleaders, two independant mechanics confirmed that after the water pump, cam belt change and the probelms I had with the tempreture for two weeks (mechanic said it was tempreture switch and fan switch - both of which were changed) the cambelt slipped a tooth sent a piston up which collided with the valve and the conrod broke. There was a large dent on the psiton crown - this was no way my fault.

    As to the breaks - the discs are large and have wholes in them I just thought that they cam with the grand turismo breack kit - not really sure what they are. The break system is a few months old. I going to remove the break guards. But more concerned that breaking at high speeds the steering wheel shudders. I will check the calipers for sticking.

    If any one else has experienced this I would be grateful for your advice.
    I am not arguing with you.. but a cambelt which has a hydraulic tensioner to slip, and water pump which has been fitted, is all very hard to think how he got it that wrong for it to both overheat and slip/jump teeth to cause said damage from piston to valve contact

    your car remapped is it?
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    http://www.badger5.co.uk, Tel:01453822880
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  9. #8
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    Conrod/Machanic issue - Brembo brakes - steering wheel rattle

    The timing being out could cause a temp issue?

  10. #9
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    No mate, timing will cause very rough running and any good mechanic will know that something is amiss ! I still think you hydrolocked the engine as its the valve that bends and not the conrod that breaks in the event of the cambelt jumping (1 tooth wont make that much difference but it will run like a bag of spanners). Anyway, i have rebuilt a few 1.8T engines on wich i've put Federal Mogul valves and they snapped at the cotter end even before fitting back to the engine. Since then i am fitting only genuine valves or Intervalve stainless steel valves (wich are 1 piece and not 2 pieces like the Federal ones). Imagine dropping one of them valves will dammage the piston in no time...but it will take much more force than that to break a conrod-eg. a cylinder full of water or oil wich will send the rod trough the block or sump... Anyway, did they fix your engine at all or you got a new car alltoghether ?
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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamss24 View Post
    No mate, timing will cause very rough running and any good mechanic will know that something is amiss ! I still think you hydrolocked the engine as its the valve that bends and not the conrod that breaks in the event of the cambelt jumping (1 tooth wont make that much difference but it will run like a bag of spanners). Anyway, i have rebuilt a few 1.8T engines on wich i've put Federal Mogul valves and they snapped at the cotter end even before fitting back to the engine. Since then i am fitting only genuine valves or Intervalve stainless steel valves (wich are 1 piece and not 2 pieces like the Federal ones). Imagine dropping one of them valves will dammage the piston in no time...but it will take much more force than that to break a conrod-eg. a cylinder full of water or oil wich will send the rod trough the block or sump... Anyway, did they fix your engine at all or you got a new car alltoghether ?
    Im not sure what really caused did i dont think no one really knows. Na the engine was to costly to fix they paid out 11k - took 1k off for damage to vehicle - so good deal really, but still sore that lost a perfectly good s3 and I was without a car for two months

 

 

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