What have they done???

Lee172

Lee172

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Hi, yesterday i took my car in to get timing belt, water pump and aux belt done. I also had to change the belt tensioner.
I got the car back today, the engine management and air bag lights are on... when the mechanic put it on the computer it said the coolant temp sensor was faulty which he erased (come back on 5 miles later) and im sure it said something about knocking sensor. The airbag on the drivers side said something about voltage and that wouldnt erase at the time. The mechanic told me to drive it about and see if that helps.
The other thing i have noticed is the pixels on the stereo have gone funny.

Has anyone got any idea what has happened and where i can go with it? obviously i will be taking it back but i would like to go back a bit more prepared.

Thanks, Lee.
 
Sounds like they've done morethan what they should of done lol

I'd suggest getting it checked with vag com, could be that he's put the timing belt on 1 tooth advanced maybe??
 
I thought they might of put it on wrong because they took literally twice as long as they said they would. Would putting the timing belt on wrong make the airbag light and the pixels in the stereo go funny though?
 
No i doubt that very much, they may have disturbed the sensor for the airbags and the radio pixel could be because they left the radio on for too long, making it hot etc, how long did it take them?
 
i dont see how those errors would be linked to a cambelt job tbh
 
Well i dropped it to them at 9 yesterday morning.. i was supposed to get the car back by 2 but i ended up getting it back today at about 4 so they did have it for a long time.
I spoke to them yesterday at about 4 and they told me the timing belt was done they was just putting it back together, so i am guessing they messed the timing up and re-done it today maybe.
 
lee172 said:
Well i dropped it to them at 9 yesterday morning.. i was supposed to get the car back by 2 but i ended up getting it back today at about 4 so they did have it for a long time.
I spoke to them yesterday at about 4 and they told me the timing belt was done they was just putting it back together, so i am guessing they messed the timing up and re-done it today maybe.
Click to expand...

The engine timing wouldn't affect those systems one little bit, no matter if it was 1 tooth advanced or retarded.

Separate issues, not connected to the job done.

However, it was fine when it went in, and broke when it came out. So it's their problem.

Just don't suggest that it's to do with the timing being out, because it won't be. All you'd get from that is an 'Incorrect Correlation' fault code.

Stand firm, and get them to sort it out.
 
16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)

This is the fault i got 4yrs ago after my timing belt was done, probably totally different to your issue

Matt/ Welly > I learn something everyday off you guys:)
 
Ok thanks for your help, im going back to the garage in about an hour so i will get them to put it on the computer again and let you know what happens.
 
yup. see if there are any codes like sandip had, otherwise there separate

coolant sensor issue is easy to sort. there can be a few different knock sensor ones so post it up and someone will point you in the right direction then you should have a happy car
 
Ok, i have just been to the garage and it turns out the boss has gone on holiday, great!

The guy there reluctantly run the diagnostics on my car.. these are the faults that come up..

Camshaft position Sensor (G40)
Engine speed sensor (G28)
Coolant Temp Sensor (G62) P0118
Incorrect Correlation P1340
Side airbag igniter, drivers side (N199)

Does anyone know what any of this means? and would i be damaging my car by using it like this?
 
lee172 said:
Incorrect Correlation P1340
Click to expand...

Welly said:
All you'd get from that is an 'Incorrect Correlation' fault code.
Click to expand...

Oh dear. Someone has messed up putting the belt on....

The full fault code should be '17748 - camshaft position sensor (G40)/ engine speed sensor (G28). Incorrect correlation P1340'

See here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928

LOL. I know this because I have done it myself! However, the car ran with no other faults or problems for a long time.
 
Is this one of them ones where i shouldnt be driving it? And its deffo something that they have done?

Obviously i know the people in the garage are fobbing me off but, they told me if the timing was wrong the car wouldnt run properly, which it does seem to?
 
Last edited:
doh. they got the belt wrong

where are you based? id be reluctant to take it back there, i wouldnt want them to **** it up further

more fuel to my "cant trust garages/specialists" fire!!
 
lee172 said:
Is this one of them ones where i shouldnt be driving it? And its deffo something that they have done?
Click to expand...

I'd be taking it back there when the boss is back, with a print out of the web page I linked for you, and leaving it there until it's been redone.

End of.

Try not to drive it in the mean time with an array of faults like that.
 
id just be bricking it about whether they did the tensioner and rollers too

hence diy ftw
 
Ok, well i can tell by the way they are that they will try and get out of it.. where do i stand legally does anybody know?

also, going back to my original theory (they messed it up the first time and re-done it, hence it taking twice as long) is it possible these codes could still be from that.. would it be worth my while seeing if the engine management light comes back on?

Is it normal that the car runs and drives fine as well?

Thanks for the replies guys.
 
Well they rang me the first day it was there and said about the tensioner so i went and got one and took it to them , im hoping they put it in.
 
lee172 said:
Ok, well i can tell by the way they are that they will try and get out of it.. where do i stand legally does anybody know?

also, going back to my original theory (they messed it up the first time and re-done it, hence it taking twice as long) is it possible these codes could still be from that.. would it be worth my while seeing if the engine management light comes back on?

Is it normal that the car runs and drives fine as well?

Thanks for the replies guys.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's normal for it to drive OK. It will fuel wrong because of the temp sensor when warm, but the engine management will adjust the engine timing to account for the belt being out. It probably won't feel any different.

The legal standpoint, I would think is that you employed them to do a job, they did it badly, and now you expect it to be redone.

Have you paid for it? If so, mention the words 'trading standards' and say that you will get an independent opinion.

That normally does the trick.
 
lee172 said:
Well they rang me the first day it was there and said about the tensioner so i went and got one and took it to them , im hoping they put it in.
Click to expand...

I would of thought so. Most belt kits don't come with them, hence why you had to get one.

Even the old one would of had to come off to be reset to do the job at all.
 
legally? well youve paid them to change the cambelt. i think itll be an implied term of that contract that they actually time the engine correctly

they have not

therefore theyve not done what youve instructed them to do... and the ecu agrees!!
 
ok, i will have to take it back there on monday now, bit of a shame as i was looking to get it mapped tomorrow.

Is there any way this can cause any serious damage to the engine?
 
Matt82 said:
legally? well youve paid them to change the cambelt. i think itll be an implied term of that contract that they actually time the engine correctly

they have not

therefore theyve not done what youve instructed them to do... and the ecu agrees!!
Click to expand...

All guns blazing.... LOL :gun2:
 
lee172 said:
ok, i will have to take it back there on monday now, bit of a shame as i was looking to get it mapped tomorrow.

Is there any way this can cause any serious damage to the engine?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't think so, but I wouldn't liked to be proved wrong by that being the case.

If you don't have to drive it, then I wouldn't personally.
 
exactly. you dont know how far it is out

1 tooth on the belt is quite far, two is really far... im not sure how far you have to go to get valve and piston interface!!

i dont think id risk it
 
one last thing, i have been looking through the website Welly sent and the airbag igniter issue..

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01217

It says under symptoms 'Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active' could this mean, that they have caused this aswell. seen as they was working by that indicator and had the inner arch etc off the car??
Or am i just searching for things to blame them for lol?
 
Last edited:
no really, the coolant sensor and airbag is nothing to do with them. id bet money your car had those faults already.

MIL is not the indicator lamp on the outside of the car, its a warning lamp on the dashboard.

a symptom is a warning or indication of a problem (ie MIL), not a cause
 
Matt82 said:
no really, the coolant sensor and airbag is nothing to do with them. id bet money your car had those faults already.

MIL is not the indicator lamp on the outside of the car, its a warning lamp on the dashboard.

a symptom is a warning or indication of a problem (ie MIL), not a cause
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
A little update on this situation, took car back to the garage yesterday (monday) and after a bit of a heated discussion they agreed to fix the engine managment side of things and told me to go to a third party to get the airbag light sorted and if it was their fault they would pay, which was sort of fair although i doubt that would of been easy to prove.
Anyway, got the car back today.. i have to say i am slightly suspicious (they have lost quite alot of trust from me since last week) of what they have done. All the lights are off and the car is running fine, which it was before, but they couldnt tell me what that actuallly done to the car, as they said they sent it somewhere else to get fixed, my question now though...is there any way they can wipe the fault codes so they dont come up again??
 
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